Traditional Cider Apple Orchards

Amidst the rolling hills and lush pastures of Somerset, Devon, and Dorset, a rich tapestry of tradition and heritage is woven through the apple orchards that dot the landscape. These orchards, with their gnarled trunks and vibrant blossoms, have long been the lifeblood of the West Country, producing the cider synonymous with the area. Yet, in recent years, many of these traditional orchards have faced the axe, making way for more profitable ventures or more modern agricultural methods.

However, a resilient group of cider makers are determined to keep the tradition alive, preserving not only the orchards but also the cultural legacy they represent, including my own family's cider apple orchard. 

In the 1970s and 80s, when the trend among farmers was to rip out their apple orchards in favour of more lucrative crops or livestock, my granddad bucked the trend. With a love for cider that went beyond the drink itself, he saw the orchards as a vital part of the community fabric. He cherished the camaraderie of apple picking, the shared laughter, and the stories exchanged over the pressing of apples.

Occasionally, as a little break from the demands of the farm, he would hitch up his pony and trap and meander through the hedge-lined lanes of Devon and Dorset. His journey would take him from farm to farm, sampling each cider, each stop a testament to the friendships and the community spirit that the orchards fostered. He would arrive back at the farm in the early evening fast asleep atop the trap, thankfully Topsy (the pony) knew the way home from almost any direction. 

The decline of traditional cider apple orchards began in the mid-20th century. Economic pressures and the pursuit of higher yields led many farmers to replace their apple trees with more profitable crops. The labour-intensive nature of maintaining an orchard, combined with fluctuating cider consumption trends, further contributed to this shift. By the late 20th century, vast swathes of these historic orchards had disappeared, taking with them unique apple varieties and a piece of rural heritage.

In response to this decline, a new wave of cider makers has emerged, championing the cause of traditional cider apples and the orchards they come from. They are dedicated to reviving and maintaining the old orchards, seeing them not just as sources of fruit, but as living museums of biodiversity and culture. By focusing on sustainable farming practices, they are nurturing a resurgence of varieties like Kingston Black, Yarlington Mill, and Dabinett, apples known for their complex flavours and excellent cider-making qualities.

One of the most captivating and beautiful aspects of these orchards is the springtime apple blossom. As winter recedes, the orchards burst into life with delicate white and pink flowers, creating a breathtaking spectacle against the backdrop of the newly greened countryside. 

The sweet early morning smell of the blossom and the steady humming of the bees has to be the highlight for me. 

Traditionally, cider was more than just a drink; it was a form of currency. In the days when hard cash was scarce, farmworkers were often paid in cider, a practice that underscored the drink's importance in rural life. This custom fostered a deep connection between the land, the fruit, and the people who worked it. Today, artisan cider makers are rekindling these connections, hosting community apple-picking events and cider-making festivals that celebrate the shared heritage and ensure that the orchards remain a vibrant part of the countryside.

While the pressures of modern agriculture have threatened the existence of traditional cider apple orchards, and, like my grandad before me, I'm determined to buck the trend and plant even more.